Nothing says Autumn like a cozy fleece pullover. The quarter-zip layout of Seamwork’s Amari Jacket will allow you some extra warmth around your neck for those extra chilly days and is perfect for pulling together a stylish athleisure outfit. Join Spoonflower’s Category Manager for Fabric MaryAshlyn as she shares how to sew this project step by step. She’s using our Polartec® Fleece, which is cozy as well as extra cute when it’s in your favorite Spoonflower design. Grab your materials and follow along with MaryAshlyn to make yours too!
Skills You’ll Learn (Or Refresh!) Sewing Seamwork’s Amari Jacket:
For beginner sewists who want to add something new to their skillset—keep reading. (If you’re a more experienced sewist, this pattern is a fun adventure too!) This project calls for sewing a yoke, quarter zip, stand collar and dropped shoulders. You’ll be expanding your skill set, while simultaneously adding to your Autumn wardrobe. Polartec Fleece is a breathable fabric that doesn’t pill after washing. But old cold weather favorites take note, this pullover may just be your new go-to piece after you’re done with this tutorial.
- Seamwork’s Amari Jacket Pattern
- Tape—to tape the pattern pieces together
- 3 yards of Polartec Fleece Fabric—MaryAshlyn is using Fantasy Garden – Jewel Tones by tarareed
- Sewing machine (or Serger)
- Ball point needle (size 80)
- Thread—MaryAshlyn is using wooly nylon thread
- Zipper foot
- Zipper—MaryAshlyn is using a 26″ (66 cm) separating sports zipper
- Sewing pins or clips
- Woven labels (optional)
How to Make Seamwork’s Amari Jacket
1. Print and Trim Your Pattern, Then Cut Out According to Your Size.
MaryAshlyn: Following the print-at-home version, trim each page and tape the pattern pieces together. Once the pattern is assembled, cut out each piece according to your selected size. I started by cutting out the front pattern piece, making sure to mark the notches to aid with pattern matching.
2. Optional: Line Up Your Design to Remain Consistent.
If you’re not using a directional pattern, you can skip to step 3.
I chose a large-scale directional pattern and therefore wanted to have a consistent design along the yoke so there wasn’t a visible break between the yoke and the rest of the pullover. To do this, place the cut front on top of your fabric. Align the design on the cut piece of fabric for the front pattern with the design on the rest of the fabric.
Pattern Matching Tip:
Mark Your Placements.
Measure a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance and mark that placement with a pin on the fabric. Using another pin, mark the placement of the notch. Once you determine the placement, set the cut front fabric aside.
Assemble Your Yoke Pieces.
Place the front yoke pattern piece on your fabric—lining the bottom of the template with the first pin, and lining the notch up with the second pin. I then repeated this process to match the cut “back” and the back yoke pattern pieces.
Now Let’s Start Sewing!
3. Sew the Front Yoke and Back Yoke Pieces Together Along the Shoulder Seams.
Once the yoke pieces are assembled, attach one of the neckband pieces to the neckline. This pattern directs you to match the circle markings on the neckband to the shoulder seams, as well as to line up with notches. Bring them all together by sewing along the pinned edge.
If you’re using a standard sewing machine, a zig zag stitch works great. I’m using a serger, which is optimal for sewing with knits, so I’m serging my seams.
4. Finish the Edges of the Center Front.
Using a zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine, finish the edge of the center front to prevent the edge from raveling. Since I’m using my serger, I’m being careful not to trim off any of the seam allowance, lining the fabric up just to the edge of the blade.
5. Attach the Zipper.
Remember to swap out your presser foot on your sewing machine, for the zipper foot if you have one. If you don’t have a zipper foot, follow the directions to sew a zipper without a zipper foot. To attach the zipper, I’m using the straight-stitch setting of my sewing machine as the instructions directed. I like to separate my zipper before pinning to each side and sewing, but you can keep your zipper closed and sew one side at a time if you’d like. (This is actually the suggested method according to the pattern instructions.)
6. Test the Zipper.
Once your zipper is attached, test it to make sure there aren’t any loose threads or puckers for it to catch on. Since my zipper doesn’t fit the pattern’s length requirements, I shortened mine. To do this, I added a few stitches above the edge of the yoke to secure the end, then trimmed off the excess. Before we continue sewing, replace your zipper foot with your presser foot on your sewing machine.
7. Attach the Second Neckband Piece.
Attach the second neckband piece with the design facing the first neckband. The instructions say to finish (or cut) the edge with the markings to prevent it from rolling/raveling, just like we did the center front a couple of steps back (step 4). Once the edge is finished, open the zipper and flatten it so that you can pin the neckband pieces together. I’m choosing to sew along all three edges with a straight stitch as directed, but also sewing the top edge as well.
8. Complete Making the Inner Neckband.
To complete the neckband, fold the inner neckband to the inside and pin it down along the neckline seam. Next, I flip my pullover to the design side, sewing an edgestitch along the base of the neckband.
9. Attach the Front and Front Yoke Pieces.
To attach the front piece and front yoke pieces I am matching up the notches and serging them together. I do the same thing to attach the back piece and back yoke pieces. This is where my choice of zipper becomes an issue. Because I am sewing this seam, it’s difficult to avoid running over the bulky zipper teeth with the needles. Thankfully I have a few backups, but this is a good reminder to tread carefully over the zipper teeth.
10. Attach the Sleeves.
Pin the top edge of each sleeve to the corresponding armhole, making sure to align the notches and match the circle marking to the shoulder seam. Serge or sew those seams together to attach your sleeves.
11. Sew the Side/Arm Seams.
It’s time to sew my side/arm seams. I pin the front and back together, lining up the seams and notches, and sewing each side from hem to sleeve.
With only the hem and sleeve hems left to sew, I’m finally in the home stretch. The pattern says to fold a 1” (3 cm) hem, but I’m deciding to decrease that slightly and use a 3/4″ (2 cm) hem. I’m using this measurement for both the sleeves and the hem, pinning them to hold them in place.
12. Hem Your Jacket.
A zig-zag stitch will work well here, or you could use a twin needle to achieve the look of a cover stitch. I have a coverstitch machine, so I jumped on the opportunity to use it here. I’m using wooly nylon thread in my looper. I’m sewing from the front to secure my hems.
13. Admire Your Amari Jacket!
Take a step back and check out the beautiful work you’ve done! I added a “Thanks, I made it,” clothing tag to my neckline. Try on your jacket, do a twirl and get ready to enjoy your authentic Autumn attire.