Nothing says Autumn like a cozy fleece pullover. The quarter-zip layout of Seamwork’s Amari Jacket will allow you some extra warmth around your neck for those extra chilly days and is perfect for pulling together a stylish athleisure outfit. Join Spoonflower’s Category Manager for Fabric MaryAshlyn as she shares how to sew this project step by step. She’s using our Polartec® Fleece, which is cozy as well as extra cute when it’s in your favorite Spoonflower design. Grab your materials and follow along with MaryAshlyn to make yours too!

MaryAshlyn posing in her finished Amari jacket in front of a wooden fence.
MaryAshlyn loves her Amari jacket! Featured design: Fantasy Garden – Jewel Tones by tarareed

Skills You’ll Learn (Or Refresh!) Sewing Seamwork’s Amari Jacket:

For beginner sewists who want to add something new to their skillset—keep reading. (If you’re a more experienced sewist, this pattern is a fun adventure too!) This project calls for sewing a yoke, quarter zip, stand collar and dropped shoulders. You’ll be expanding your skill set, while simultaneously adding to your Autumn wardrobe. Polartec Fleece is a breathable fabric that doesn’t pill after washing. But old cold weather favorites take note, this pullover may just be your new go-to piece after you’re done with this tutorial.  

Skill Level:
Advanced Beginner

A green grid surface lays underneath supplies to make a fleece pullover. Green thread, black thread, sewing needles, a sports zipper, clothing labels and fabric scissors lay on top of a green botanical fabric. To the right side of that are another pair of scissors, a sewing template and tape. A sewing machine and serger are in the top left and right corners.


  • Seamwork’s Amari Jacket Pattern 
  • Tape—to tape the pattern pieces together
  • 3 yards of Polartec Fleece Fabric—MaryAshlyn is using Fantasy Garden – Jewel Tones by tarareed 
  • Sewing machine (or Serger) 
  • Ball point needle (size 80)
  • Thread—MaryAshlyn is using wooly nylon thread
  • Zipper foot
  • Zipper—MaryAshlyn is using a 26″ (66 cm) separating sports zipper
  • Scissors
  • Sewing pins or clips
  • Woven labels (optional)

How to Make Seamwork’s Amari Jacket

White pieces of the sewing template lay on a white surface.
Once you have printed out your pattern, tape the pieces together. Cut out each piece according to your size.
Numbered pattern templates lay on the pullover fabric. Black and gold pattern weights keep the template from moving.
I’m starting my jacket by preparing my front pattern piece. I use pattern weights to keep my pattern still on my fabric.

1. Print and Trim Your Pattern, Then Cut Out According to Your Size.

MaryAshlyn: Following the print-at-home version, trim each page and tape the pattern pieces together. Once the pattern is assembled, cut out each piece according to your selected size. I started by cutting out the front pattern piece, making sure to mark the notches to aid with pattern matching. 

Using Another Version of the Amari Pattern?

Seamwork also offers print-shop versions in various sizes, which you can print at a local print shop or by using a service such as PDF Plotting.   
A ruler and two sewing pins are on a botanical piece of fabric. There's a break in the fabric indicating on piece is on top of another.
If you want the design to look continuous, place your front fabric on top of the fabric you plan to use for your front yoke. Measure a 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowance and mark it with a pin.
The template for the Amari jacket's Front is placed on the botanical design fabric. A sewing pin is at the corner of the template. Another pin is placed facing notches on the template.
Place your front pattern on the fabric and mark where the notches are with another sewing pin.

2. Optional: Line Up Your Design to Remain Consistent.

If you’re not using a directional pattern, you can skip to step 3.  

I chose a large-scale directional pattern and therefore wanted to have a consistent design along the yoke so there wasn’t a visible break between the yoke and the rest of the pullover. To do this, place the cut front on top of your fabric. Align the design on the cut piece of fabric for the front pattern with the design on the rest of the fabric. 

Pattern Matching Tip:

Make sure you have enough fabric to account for the extra length needed. For example, the size I selected required 2.5 yards according to the instructions—but I required a full 3 yards because of the specific pattern placement I used. 
A ruler lays on a botanical designed piece of fabric. A visible break indicates where the fabric has been cut. We see the edges of the Amari jacket template in the top corner. One sewing pin is on the edge of the fabric. Two others are in the center.
Repeat this process for your back yoke to match the rest of your jacket. Measure a 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowance and mark it with a pin. Using another pin, mark the placement of the notch.
The back yoke template is laying on the botanical fabric on a white surface. A sewing pin marks the edge between the fabric and the template.
Notice, your template should line up with the sewing pin placed at your seam allowance.

Mark Your Placements.

Measure a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance and mark that placement with a pin on the fabric. Using another pin, mark the placement of the notch. Once you determine the placement, set the cut front fabric aside.  

The front yoke cur out lays design side down on top of the back yoke, which is design side up. Pins along the edge secure the piecs together. The fabric lays on a white surface.
Lay your front yoke, design side down, on your back yoke that is design side up. Line them up at the shoulder and place pins along the edges as we prepare to sew them together.

Assemble Your Yoke Pieces.

Place the front yoke pattern piece on your fabric—lining the bottom of the template with the first pin, and lining the notch up with the second pin. I then repeated this process to match the cut “back” and the back yoke pattern pieces.   

Now Let’s Start Sewing!

Pin the neckband to the neckline by matching the circle markings on the neckband to the shoulder seams and notches.
Here’s a wider look at the neckband you will attach to the neckline.

3. Sew the Front Yoke and Back Yoke Pieces Together Along the Shoulder Seams.

Once the yoke pieces are assembled, attach one of the neckband pieces to the neckline. This pattern directs you to match the circle markings on the neckband to the shoulder seams, as well as to line up with notches. Bring them all together by sewing along the pinned edge. 

If you’re using a standard sewing machine, a zig zag stitch works great. I’m using a serger, which is optimal for sewing with knits, so I’m serging my seams. 

4. Finish the Edges of the Center Front.

Using a zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine, finish the edge of the center front to prevent the edge from raveling. Since I’m using my serger, I’m being careful not to trim off any of the seam allowance, lining the fabric up just to the edge of the blade.

Secure the zipper to your jacket with sewing pins. Remember to use the straight-stitch option on your sewing machine when adding the zipper.

5. Attach the Zipper.

Remember to swap out your presser foot on your sewing machine, for the zipper foot if you have one. If you don’t have a zipper foot, follow the directions to sew a zipper without a zipper foot. To attach the zipper, I’m using the straight-stitch setting of my sewing machine as the instructions directed. I like to separate my zipper before pinning to each side and sewing, but you can keep your zipper closed and sew one side at a time if you’d like. (This is actually the suggested method according to the pattern instructions.) 

Once your zipper is attached, check to make sure there aren’t any loose threads or puckers.

6. Test the Zipper.

Once your zipper is attached, test it to make sure there aren’t any loose threads or puckers for it to catch on. Since my zipper doesn’t fit the pattern’s length requirements, I shortened mine. To do this, I added a few stitches above the edge of the yoke to secure the end, then trimmed off the excess. Before we continue sewing, replace your zipper foot with your presser foot on your sewing machine.

Attach the second neckband piece, making sure it is design side down.

7. Attach the Second Neckband Piece.

Attach the second neckband piece with the design facing the first neckband. The instructions say to finish (or cut) the edge with the markings to prevent it from rolling/raveling, just like we did the center front a couple of steps back (step 4). Once the edge is finished, open the zipper and flatten it so that you can pin the neckband pieces together. I’m choosing to sew along all three edges with a straight stitch as directed, but also sewing the top edge as well. 

Finish the neckband by folding the inner neckband to the inside and pinning it down along the neckline seam.

8. Complete Making the Inner Neckband.

To complete the neckband, fold the inner neckband to the inside and pin it down along the neckline seam. Next, I flip my pullover to the design side, sewing an edgestitch along the base of the neckband. 

The inner neckband has been stitched to the rest of the jacket which is turned design side in. The zipped is closed and sewing pins connect the yoke to the front fabric that needs to be stitched. A white surface is in the background.
My jacket is turned to the side with the neckband pointing to the left. Place sewing pins at the bottom of the front yoke to attach it to the rest of the front fabric.
The jacket is turned inside-out with the back of the jacket facing up. The jacket is turned to the side, with the neckline pointing to the right. Sewing pins are connectiong the back yoke to the back fabric. A white surface is in the background.
Turn your jacket so the back is facing up. Attach the back to the back yoke using sewing pins.
The project is turned design side out and open to show the switching of the shoulders, yoke, and neckline. A white surface is in the background.
Here’s what my jacket looks like, so far. It is opened-out from the shoulders. Take a look at the neckline, where the zipper is (the bottom center) to get a perspective of how we have the jacket laid out.

9. Attach the Front and Front Yoke Pieces.

To attach the front piece and front yoke pieces I am matching up the notches and serging them together. I do the same thing to attach the back piece and back yoke pieces. This is where my choice of zipper becomes an issue. Because I am sewing this seam, it’s difficult to avoid running over the bulky zipper teeth with the needles. Thankfully I have a few backups, but this is a good reminder to tread carefully over the zipper teeth. 

The jacket is opened out with the zipper pointing to the right. The right sleeve piece of fabric is pinned to the right shoulder.
Turn your jacket so the zipper is pointing to the right. Pin your right arm fabric to the bottom of the right shoulder.  
The jacket is turned wrong side up to show the arm fabric is sewn to the shoulder.  A white surface is in the background.
Flip your jacket so it is design side down. Notice the zipper is still pointing to the right. Replace those sewing pins with a stitch to connect your arm fabric to the shoulders.

10. Attach the Sleeves.

Pin the top edge of each sleeve to the corresponding armhole, making sure to align the notches and match the circle marking to the shoulder seam. Serge or sew those seams together to attach your sleeves.

The jacket is turned design side in and turned at an angle. The focus is on the right sleeve, and down the right side. Sewing pins are placed throughout to stitch the sleeve closed and stitch the side of the jacket down.
Place sewing pins along the side and arm seams, making sure to line up the seams and notches.

11. Sew the Side/Arm Seams.

It’s time to sew my side/arm seams. I pin the front and back together, lining up the seams and notches, and sewing each side from hem to sleeve.  

With only the hem and sleeve hems left to sew, I’m finally in the home stretch. The pattern says to fold a 1” (3 cm) hem, but I’m deciding to decrease that slightly and use a 3/4″ (2 cm) hem. I’m using this measurement for both the sleeves and the hem, pinning them to hold them in place. 

A closeup on the end of the sleeve shows it’s folded back with sewing pins placed along the edge in preparation to hem the sleeve. The folded back edge shows the design. A white surface is in the background.
Let’s hem the sleeve. The pattern says to fold a 1” (3 cm) seam but I slightly decreased that to 3/4″ (2 cm).
A close-up of a downward-pointed sleeve. It is turned inside out where the sleeve stitches are visible. Sewing needles are placed where the end of the sleeve will be hemmed. The sleeve is on a white surface that is in the background.
Here’s another look at the sewing pins in place, as we prepare to hem our jacket.
A close-up of the hemmed sleeve. The jacket is design side out where two rows of stitches are near the edge. A white surface is in the background.
I’m using a cover stitch machine to achieve my hem, but a zip-zag stitch or twin needle will also work.
The bottom of a sleeve lays on a white surface from a diagonal angle, showing the hemming of the sleeve. The jacket is turned design side up to show the butterflies, leaves, and flowers on the design.
Here’s another look of the hemmed sleeve.  

12. Hem Your Jacket.

A zig-zag stitch will work well here, or you could use a twin needle to achieve the look of a cover stitch. I have a coverstitch machine, so I jumped on the opportunity to use it here. I’m using wooly nylon thread in my looper. I’m sewing from the front to secure my hems. 

The back of the finished jacket from the yoke up, showing a continuous directional design on a white surface.
Here’s what the front of my jacket looks like. I added a clothing tag that says “Thanks, I made it.”
The front of the finished jacket from the yoke up. The zipper is opened and a clothing tag that says “Thanks, I made it” is in the center right below the neckline.
Here’s the back of my jacket. I’m so happy the directional print looks continuous.

13. Admire Your Amari Jacket!

Take a step back and check out the beautiful work you’ve done! I added a “Thanks, I made it,” clothing tag to my neckline. Try on your jacket, do a twirl and get ready to enjoy your authentic Autumn attire.

A close up of MaryAshlyn wearing her Amari jacket lightly gripping the neckline of the jacket, smiling. A wooden fence, trees, and the sky are in the background
MaryAshlyn showing off the back of her finished Amari jacket. The consistency of the directional pattern is evident. A fence is in front of her followed by the edge of a house and some trees.
MaryAshlyn looking down walking forward in her Amari jacket. A fence, home, and trees are in the background.

Find Your Design to Create Your Pullover

Frequently Asked Questions

What skill level is required to make a fleece pullover?
This pattern is designed for advanced beginner sewist who want to expand their skills (and wardrobe). More experienced sewists are also welcome to give this pattern a go-ahead!
What type of design do you suggest for making a fleece pullover?
Commonly, pullovers incorporate a solid color and a design to differentiate between the upper and lower parts of the jacket. You may also follow MaryAshlyn and use one of your favorite Spoonflower designs in a large-scale print.  
What can I do if I don’t have a zipper foot to sew on the zipper?
You can use the presser foot on your sewing machine and follow these directions for sewing on a zipper without a zipper foot.

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