Two Customizable Robe Sewing Patterns with Spoonflower’s Fabrics

*Updated October 2025

There’s nothing better than changing out of your work clothes and cozying up to a soft, handmade robe after a busy day. Or, maybe you prefer the light and airy breeze of Chiffon for a statement-making piece of apparel. No matter your preference, we’re here to show you two ways to make a robe using Spoonflower’s Chiffon and Organic Cotton Knit. For these two fun projects, we enlisted the help of Maddie Flanigan of lingerie brand Madalynne and Meg of MegMade Sewing.

Photography by: Bekuh Browning

Maddie: If you’re reading this during fall, you’re probably preoccupied with finding the perfect pair of boots or a super cozy sweater. I’m assuming you would overlook anything chiffon (I would). But I promise, paired with the right pieces, this sheer fabric can be worn when the temps dip and the leaves start to change. Scout’s honor.

Note: I used the most basic construction techniques so any level sewist could make this robe. If you’re more experienced and want to finish a different/better way, go ahead!

Cutting: Line your cutting board with tissue paper and lay fabric on top. Also, use very sharp fabric scissors (make sure they’re sharpened) or a rotary cutter.

Pinning: Use fine or silk pins. If you’re worried about pin holes showing through, try using steam after you pin, but be sure to use the synthetic setting since it’s polyester. An alternative to pinning is using pattern weights.

Thread: Choose a high quality, FINE, polyester thread. Because the fabric is poly and not silk, it’s important to make sure the thread is the same content as the fabric.

One of my mottos in life is “perfection is overrated.” Chiffon is difficult to work with PERIOD. You’re going to make mistakes, and that’s completely okay. I do, too! It’s acceptable to cut as you sew. That’s the beauty of handmade garments. Give yourself a break and enjoy the process.

Maddie Flanigan is the lingerie designer and sewing teacher behind lingerie brand Madalynne. Operating a studio out of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, Maddie is a woman on a mission. As she puts it, “My overarching vision is to provide women with feminine lingerie that is equally beautiful as it is functional, whether that be through sewing their own or buying from the market.” With a new made-in-the-USA line of lingerie available through her site, Anthropologie and more, a pattern licensing deal with Simplicity, and bra-making workshops taught in her studio, Maddie is doing just that! 

Meg: This robe was designed with simple acts of self-care in mind. When anxious feelings overwhelm me, I take a moment to make a cup of herbal tea. I was so delighted to find this Tea Kettle House design and use it for comfy loungewear.

I designed this lounge robe with a slimmer fit that’s below the knee and has a cropped sleeve. If you want an actual bathrobe, you’ll probably want to add extra width. Feel free to adjust the robe and sleeve length measurements to suit your style!

All seam allowances are 1/4” unless otherwise stated. I like to use 1/4″ seam allowances here because it maximizes your fabric yardage, there are no seams to trim and if you’re using a serger, it lines up perfectly with the width of a four-thread overlock stitch without having to trim anything. 

1. Download the free measurements PDF, fill in your measurements and complete the equations to determine the dimensions of your pattern pieces. Then cut out your pattern pieces according to the measurements.

2. Divide your neck measurement by four (or neck x .25) and, keeping your pieces mirrored, mark this measurement along the top edge of your fabric. Next, starting at the top, measure down the center front of the length of your neck-to-waist measurement, and mark. Draw an angled line connecting the two marks and cut to create the robe opening.

3. With the back piece still folded in half, measure that same quarter neck measurement along the top edge, starting at the fold. Next, starting at the top, measure down the folded edge 1.5”. Draw a curve (a french curve or similar tool is helpful!) connecting the two marks to create the back neck curve.

With right sides together, sew fronts to the back, pressing seams towards the back.

4. First, mark the center at the top of both sleeve pieces. Make sure the grainline is running down the arm, with the stretch wrapping around the arm. Match the center mark to the shoulder seam, and pin the rest of the sleeve to the front and back. Sew right sides together and press seam towards the sleeve. Repeat on the other side.

5. OPTIONAL – Fold each loop piece in half right sides together, lining up the long edges. Sew with 1/4” seam allowance along the long side and turn each loop right side out. These loops can either be inserted in the side seams at the waist point in the next step or sewn onto the finished robe later.

6. Match the front and back sleeves and bodices right sides together. If you’re inserting sash loops, insert one in each side seam at this point. Sew the entire length of each sleeve and side seam together and press seams towards the back.

7. Try your robe on and double-check the length of the robe and sleeve. If satisfied, fold the sleeve hems up by 1”, wrong sides together, and sew with your preferred stretch stitch. Finish the bottom by folding the bottom hem up 2”, wrong sides together, and sew with your preferred stretch stitch.

8. If you haven’t already done so, measure the entire length of your robe opening and add 3/4″ to determine the length of your neckband. You’ll likely have to divide this measurement into two pieces of fabric.

Sew the neckband pieces right sides together along the shortest side to create one long strip and press the seam open. Next, fold the neckband in half lengthwise, right sides facing but do not press. Sew the ends of the neckband closed with a 1/2″ seam allowance and clip the corners at the fold. Turn the corners out. Finally, fold the entire neckband lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press.

9. Mark the center of the neckband and match the center mark to the center back of the robe, right sides together. Next, match each end of the neckband with the hem of the robe, taking care to keep the neckband untwisted. Pin the rest of the neckband evenly down each side of the robe, stretching the neckband slightly along the curve of the neck.

Sew the neckband to the robe with 1/4” seam allowance. Press the seam towards the robe and topstitch if desired.

If you didn’t insert the optional belt loops in the side seams earlier, mark your waist on each side seam of the robe and attach a belt loop to each side. First fold the raw edge over and then topstitch the belt loop to the robe, repeating for the top and bottom of the loop.

10. Sew the two belt pieces right sides together along the shortest side to create one long strip. Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew around all three raw edges with 1/4″ seam allowance, leaving about a 3″ gap to turn the belt.

Clip the corners and turn the belt right side out through the opening. Use a point-turner to poke out the corners. Neaten up the opening, align the folded edges and stitch the opening closed by hand or by machine.

Feed the tie belt through the belt loops and you’re done!

We hope you enjoyed these robe sewing patterns and tutorials. If you’ve made them your own, don’t forget to share with us by tagging @spoonflower on your social media. We love to see how Spoonflower designs are brought to life!