The Ultimate Guide To Sewing Your Own Bras and Underwear

Handmade intimates? File under: Things we love. Sewing underwear is trending in the online DIY / sewing community and there are a growing number of patterns available. Whether you’re celebrating #BRAugust or just looking to make your own lingerie, this blog is full of our best tips, recommended fabrics, elastic suggestions and our favorite patterns. Basically, this blog will tell you everything you need to know about how to sew bras and underwear.

While you probably know all about making your own clothes, making your own bras, underwear or lingerie is a great way to step out of your comfort zone and make something exclusively for yourself.

Are you ready to get intimate with your sewing projects? If yes, prepare to be inspired and get your sewing machine ready!

DIY lingerie is our latest obsession. We believe that one of the greatest forms of self-care is handcrafting beautiful me-made clothing as a gift to yourself. Sewing your own loungewear or lingerie really is the cherry on top when it comes to taking the time to make something special and unique to you. Need a little fabric inspo? Let’s take a look at four fabric options, plus some pattern ideas for a variety of bras and underwear, no matter your personal style!

You can buy any Spoonflower design created by an independent artist on our four recommend fabric types. When it comes to your underwear, you can stick with the classics, or go bold! It’s a great way to experiment with pattern. Here are two collections of prints to get you started:

Best for: underwear, boxer briefs and bralettes

Our wonderfully soft Cotton Spandex Jersey is the perfect stretch cotton for underwear. Made with a soft and 4-way stretchy blend of cotton (93%) with spandex (7%), it has nice recovery for snug-fitting items like bralettes, underwear and boxer briefs.

Having a fabric which stretches in both directions is essential for underwear, where you want it to move with your body. For your everyday underwear, Cotton Spandex Jersey is super soft and is very user-friendly fabric with minimal slippage or stretching while sewing. Basically, it’s an awesome all-purpose fabric for a variety of low-key undergarments. 

Tips for Sewing with Cotton Spandex Jersey: Make sure to pre-wash to allow for shrinkage. When making underwear with Cotton Spandex Jersey, make sure you have a ballpoint/stretch needle, a walking foot and pins for sewing elastic.

Best for: bras, bralettes and lingerie

Satin is the epitome of lingerie material. Its smooth and shiny texture makes it easy to wear for hours. Characterized by an ultra shiny look and a lovely thin hand that softens the more it’s washed, Satin elevates any handmade project.

Spoonflower Satin is a 100% woven polyester fabric making it much more affordable than historically silk satins. You can also get adventurous with any pattern from the World’s Largest Textile Design Library printed in vibrant color with crisp detail and strong color fastness.

Satin can be quite finicky to work with but making a satin bra can be easier than you think with the right pattern and the silky feeling of handmade intimates is so worth it!

Best for: bras, slips and lingerie

For decades, intimates and silk have gone together like peanut butter and jelly. Cotton Silk, with the sheen of silk and the breathability of cotton, is a luxuriously comfortable fabric. Its versatility makes it a prime choice for projects that need a touch of elegance with a gentle feel that drapes and skims over the body.

Best for: sports bras

It’s easy to see why sewing your own sports bra is becoming more and more popular! Making a sports bra means you can make one that fits you well and you can pick and choose the style and cut that works for your body. Spoonflower’s Sport Lycra^® is a durable knit fabric with an 88% polyester and 12% Lycra construction. Its medium weight, 4-way stretch and moisture-wicking finish makes Sport Lycra an ideal choice for athletic apparel like sports bras.

If you’ve ever tried to make your own undergarments, you’ve probably come across all the different options for elastics. Any pattern will guide you on the construction of your undergarments, but sometimes the biggest hurdle is the elastic. We’re right there with you if all these choices leave you feeling a little overwhelmed! Where do you find them? What are they called? Which work best? We’ll do our best to quell any elastic-related fear.

There are four types of elastics that you’ll typically see associated with underwear:

Fold-over elastic, also known as FOE, does just that – it folds over the edge, nicely enclosing the raw edges of your garment. This elastic is made to be next to your skin. You can find FOE in an array of colors, sometimes with extra embellishments like dots or sparkles, which gives you lots of options to finish your underpants with both function and flare.

Tips for Sewing with Fold Over Elastic: To reduce bulk, just after stitching it in a circle, trim the seam allowance to a point or half circle and press open. This will also help to keep any raw edges from peeking out after folding the elastic around the edge of your underpants. If you have the option (typically on older machines), a straight stretch stitch is a nice way to reduce visibility of the stitch, particularly when using decorative FOE or thread that doesn’t quite match.

Picot elastic has one plain edge and one scalloped edge and is sometimes referred to as lace lingerie elastic. Some picot elastic also comes with a “plush” side, which is a bit of added comfort, especially if you tend to have sensitive skin, as this will also be next to your skin.

Tips for Sewing with Picot Elastic: When attaching picot, stitch as close to the start of the scalloped edge as possible. The “plush” side is considered the “wrong side” of the elastic – this is important when attaching it to your panties. Picot offers a nice “peek-a-boo” detail.

Knit elastic is the most basic of these elastics. It will be enclosed, hidden from view and will not touch your skin, making the color and look of it far less important. In the photo, the top elastic is knit elastic and the bottom, off-white, elastic is braided elastic. Of these two, knit is preferable for underpants as you will be stitching through the elastic and this can hold up to being pierced by the needle. While braided elastic may not hold up as long when pierced by the needle, it’s totally fine to use braided elastic if it’s what you have on hand.

In its most simple form, self-fabric just means you cut strips of the same fabric you used for your underpants to finish the leg and/or waist instead of elastic. This is a fabulous finish in more ways than one! It’s super comfortable on your skin and is more affordable (and possibly stress-reducing?) because there is no need to purchase additional notions. Perhaps best of all, it is a great way to use up scraps!

Although elastic widths are pretty standard, be sure to check the required width of elastic with the pattern you’re using! It’s totally ok to go rogue on the “required” width, but you’ll need to account for the width difference when cutting and constructing your undergarments.

Unless you live near a unicorn of a fabric shop, there is a good chance you’ll be purchasing your fold-over or picot elastic online. We recommend Booby Traps, Bra Builders, WAWAK and Etsy shops like TailorMadeShoppe for every notion imaginable, from super cute elastics to all the trimmings you could desire.

Thread: You’ll want to consider choosing a thread that matches or contras with your chosen elastic.

All patterns will instruct you on how to attach the elastic to your underwear or bra, but here are our top seven tips to get you started!

We all have a slightly different preference when it comes to the fit of our undergarments and all elastics are not created equal. Mark your elastic with a pin or disappearing ink and wrapping it around yourself before cutting it to size. This way, you won’t end up with super cool underpants or bras that are super unwearable

Elastic is typically sewn onto underpants in a two step process: attaching and finishing. Machines differ, so cut a few inches of elastic and practice stitching it to a fabric scrap before attaching your elastic to your underpants. This way you can make any adjustments to the stitch length and width or presser foot pressure and reduce the likelihood of irritation with your final garment.

As a starting point, try attaching the elastic with a 1.5mm length, 3mm width zig-zag stitch and finish with a 1.5mm length, 4mm width 3-step zig-zag.

A walking foot helps keep the elastic from sliding off of the edge of the fabric and feeds it through nice and evenly.

Using tissue paper between the elastic and the needle plate will help keep your machine from eating the elastic – this is especially helpful when sewing the elastic into a circle.

When sewing underwear, point the seam of elastic in the opposite direction to the seam of the panty to reduce bulk at the leg openings.

Although it’s not necessary to pin the elastic to the fabric at the second go around (finishing) it’s a good idea to do so at the seams where there will be added bulk.

When first attaching the elastic, don’t worry about stretching it for the first 2 or 3 stitches. Just get it attached!

Elastic Storage Tip: Use your discarded thread spools to keep your elastics and bias tapes organized!

Have you ever considered sewing your own underwear? Sewing underwear is the ultimate quickie project that is super easy and super fun. Who doesn’t love a satisfying sew?

After you make your first pair using just around a fat quarter or half a yard (this is the perfect stash-buster project!) of Cotton Spandex Jersey, you’ll be saying “sayonara” to store-bought lingerie and “hello” to me-made undergarments. A new pair of underwear cut specifically to your dimensions for the most flattering fit possible? A dream come true. And if it doesn’t work out on your first try, at least you haven’t wasted 3.5 yards of Silk Crepe de Chine.

Try your hand at making your own underwear with our list of favorite patterns:

Orange Lingerie Montgomery Brief in Modern Abstract Squiggles

Seamwork Flo Undies in Pink Striped Circle Squares

Thread Theory Comox Trunks in Beagle Balloons

Orange Lingerie Munroe Briefs in Retro Rainbow Stripes

Measure Twice, Cut Once Lydia Knickers in Earthy Geometric

Megan Nielsen Acacia Underwear in Coral Sands Block Print Pebble Beach

Closet Core Anaïs Undies in Playa Wildflower

Muna and Broad Waratah Undies

Ohhh Lyly Kelly Hi-Cut Panties

Ohhh Lulu August Ruffle Thong

Emerald Erin Friday French Cut

Peppermint Boxer Shorts

Sewing your own bra may seem intimidating, but with an easy to follow pattern, it’s easier and more approachable than you might imagine. A lot of sewists tend to have a mental block about sewing things like lingerie, swimwear and sportswear — but these garments can be done on a domestic sewing machine and in a shorter amount of time then dresses or blouses!

“Sewing a bra has been a very relaxing change up from my normal apparel routine. I’ve enjoyed the challenge and the skills I’ve learned from working with knit fabric and stretch notions. I’ve also enjoyed the process more than anything, and it’s been a reminder to bask in the wonder of great fabric, find happiness in the construction of a garment and enjoy the work of art that is your creation.” – Alexis Bailey of @wearweregoing

Bonus, undergarments are the best way to try out new, bold designs before incorporating them into your everyday wardrobe! Try your hand at making your own bra with our favorite sewing patterns:

Sophie Hines Axis Tank Bra in Marble Swirl

Cashmerette Symmes Strapless Bra in Vintage Protea

Cahmerette Willowdale Bra in Marigold Trails

Madalynne Barrett Bralette in Montana Blooms

Emerald Erin Black Beauty Bra in Violet Abstract Lines

Ohhh Lulu Lingerie Peridot Bralette in Serene Willow Leaves

Orange Lingerie Boylston Bra Boylsto Bra

If you love the look of a matching underwear set or just want a two-for-one pattern, here are a few of our top picks:

Seamwork Kaye Bralette and Shorts in Sage Daisies

Madalynne Rosemary Bra Top, Panty and Skirt in Gouache Painted Checkerboard

Madalynne Tonika Bralette and Panty in Wild Roses

Cloth Habit Watson Bra and Bikini in Muted Woodlands

Why should you sew your own sports bra? Beyond being a quick and fun project, being able to customize the level of support and fabric design makes them personal to you. The other thing about sports bras is that you don’t need a lot of fabric to make them! For small or medium sports bras, you won’t need more than a 1/2 yard of Sport Lycra®. With Spoonflower’s Fill-A-Yard® feature, you can get two designs printed on one yard!

Many of the sports bra patterns below will indicate that level of support will ultimately come down to fabric choice. Compared to light-weight fabrics, our medium-weight Sport Lycra® will more support. You can also add powernet in between the lining and self layers for additional compression and support. An additional layer of powernet cut in the opposite stretch direction gives even more stability.

Also, you do not need a fancy sewing machine or specialty machine to sew your own sports bra! We highly recommend sewing your own sports bra from our list of recommended patterns—it’s more accessible than you think and with some practice, they are a great addition to your handmade wardrobe!

Made for Mermaids Emmy Sports Bra in Soft Ikat Stripes

Porcelynne Christina Sports Bra in Preppy Stripes

Christina Sports Bra Notes: This sports bra pattern comes in an extensive size range, for a total of 182 sizes!

Evie la Luve Mighty Sports Bra in Anemone Flowers

Mighty Sports Bra Notes: This pattern has the option of adding a back closure making it easy to get the bra on and off.

Sewaholic Dunbar Sports Bra Top in Dusty Rose Marble

Dunbar Sports Bra Notes: This pattern offers two options for a bra length or top length. The pattern also has a full lining that allows for removable foam cups.

Greenstyle Power Sports Bra in Peach and Turquoise Tie Dye

Powers Sports Bra Notes: This versatile pattern comes in many views to make a sports bra that fits your style and needs. The pattern also uses the bra cup and band size system which allows for a more nuanced fit.

Made for Mermaids Lulu Sports Bra in Heatwave

So Sew Easy Ultimate Sports Bra

Ultimate Sports Bra Notes: This is a free pattern with video instructions to help you complete the project! You can also add removable foam cups for extra coverage.