*Updated August 2025 

Two handmade backpacks on a blue background. One has pink and white animal cookies and the other has red and black beetles
As an illustration, see what your backpack will look like when finished! Featured designs: Frosted Animal Cookies by spookishdelight and These Don’t Bug Me by selmacardoso 

Small backpacks are having their moment, and rightfully so. Looking for one that’s unique and suits your personality? Use this free mini backpack sewing pattern and the following small backpack tutorial to create your own. With Spoonflower’s Design Library, find fabric designs that showcase your personal style. Spoonflower is here to help you bring your creativity to life! 

You’ll need a couple of yards of fabric (it should be durable to ensure your backpack is sturdy and can carry heavier items) and an intermediate level of sewing experience.  

Stitching a mini backpack for your mini-me? This small backpack tutorial and the above pattern doubles as a kids backpack sewing pattern. Be sure to stick around through the end for a bonus DIY you can slip in the inside pocket: surprise love notes! 

Small Backpack Tutorial  

Materials Needed

For this small backpack tutorial, you’ll need the following materials.

  • 1 yard of sturdy fabric (we like Dogwood Denim®) 
  • 1 yard of Petal Signature Cotton® that complements the sturdy fabric design 
  • 1 yard/meter fusible fleece 
  • Our free mini backpack sewing pattern 
  • Sewing machine 
  • Needle for hand sewing
  • Matching thread
  • Sewing clips or pins
  • Two 1” (2.5 cm) D-rings 
  • Two 1” (2.5 cm) strap adjusters 
  • 18” (45 cm) zipper or longer 

What to know before you start

Fabric and Interfacing 
While we used Dogwood Denim® for the outer fabric, you can also use Recycled Canvas or Cypress Cotton Canvas. Get any design on any of these three sturdy fabrics or upload your own design to add an extra special personal touch! 

The interfacing is medium weight fusible fleece. Alongside the denim, it provides just enough structure and thickness for a quality bag while also remaining flexible.We’ve also used fusible foam for a more structured back side where the straps sit. 

Needles
This small backpack tutorial involves sewing multiple layers of thick fabric! Prepare in advance by purchasing a denim needle for your machine to ensure nothing gets jammed or broken and check out our denim sewing tips here.  

Step 1. Prepare the pieces 

Print, tape together and cut out the free PDF pattern – you should have seven pieces total to work with (A-G). Transfer these to your outer fabric, lining and preferred interfacing and cut according to the instructions labeled on each piece. Fuse the interfacing to the fabric pieces that require it. 

If you’re making a mini backpack for a child, pay attention to the strap (G) measurement. Cut at the “child size” mark instead of using the whole length for adults. 

The two backpacks here are unique in their own way. Animal Cookies by spookishdelight has a playful pastel palette great for any child or child at heart. These Don’t Bug Me by selmacardoso is great for the bug lovers in your life. We used these designs for the outer fabric layer and paired them with lilac and wine Petal Solids for the lining (Petal Solids is no longer available at Spoonflower, but Petal Signature Cotton® is a great alternative!). 

This finished backpack measures about 11″ (height) x 9″ (width across) x 4″ (depth). 

Full layout of the Mini Backpack pattern

Mini Backpack pattern cut and laid out on the table
GIF: Using fabric scissors and pattern weights to transfer pattern to beetle fabric

Step 2. Create the straps  

Take a strap piece (G) and fold one of the shorter edges in by 1/4” (1/2 cm) to form a small hem. Then iron in place and repeat on the other short side. Grab one longer edge of the fabric and fold it in once towards the middle and iron. Repeat on the other side to where the two long edges meet in the center. Fold the fabric in half with the raw edges tucked inside, iron, then clip or pin together all the way down the whole strap. 

Repeat all of the above for the other strap. 

Sew a straight stitch down each side of both straps about 1/4” (1/2 cm) from the edges. Then set these aside for a quick moment. 

Finished strap piece

Step 3. Form two D-ring tabs  

Just like we did in step 1 for the straps, take your D-ring tab pieces (E) and fold the long edges in to meet the middle, then iron. Fold this in half and iron one more time. 

Now feed these pieces into each of your 1” (2.5 cm) D-rings. Once in, fold the fabric tab over the flat edge of the ring to where the raw edges meet and clip to hold. 

Step 4. Build the back side  

Get your straps and tabs ready. Take one of the main body pieces (A) and lay it flat right side up (design side up). Along the bottom edge, measure 2” from the sides and clip a D-Ring tab to that mark. As can be seen, the curve of the “D” should be facing upwards, and all the raw edges of both the tab and main pieces should be aligned. 

Repeat the above process, but this time along the top edge of the same main piece. Instead of measuring out 2” from the side, measure 1” from the middle point towards the left and right. Place one strap on each mark and clip down. 

Sew down the straps and the tabs to the main body piece. For an extra hold, consider stitching over these parts multiple times. You can roll the straps up and clip them, so they stay put during the rest of the sewing process. 

Pro Tip: 

You can find the middle point of piece A by folding it in half longways and making a small diagonal cut on the tip (as small as you can). Then when you open it, you’ll have a small triangle as a guide. This method is used throughout the whole mini backpack sewing process to ensure pieces are lined up correctly. 

Step 5. Make the handle  

Remember making the straps and tabs? Let’s repeat that process. Take the top handle piece (C) and iron the short edges in 1/4″ (1/2 cm). Fold the long edges towards the middle, fold in half and iron. After sewing down each edge, bring this finished handle piece to your top gusset piece. 

Lay the top gusset piece (D) flat right side up. Find the center of the top gusset using the clipping method in the highlighted tip in the previous step. Then take both ends of the handle piece and push them inwards so the whole thing curves upwards like a handle. You can choose how much to push depending on preference, but mine was pushed about 1” (2.5 cm) from each side. Pin each side down, still keeping that curved shape, and sew in place only on the ends connecting the gusset and handle together. 

Step 6. Join the top gusset and zipper  

To ensure your zipper is the perfect length for this next step, you can sew a new stopping point by adding a layer of stitches at the beginning or end. I had a 24” (61 cm) zipper laying around, so I cut 6″ (15 cm) off the end and stitched the top closed. 

With the top gusset piece facing right side up, place your zipper on top of the gusset zipper-side-down with the bottom edges aligned and clip in place. Then take your top gusset (D) lining piece and place it on top of that, lining up the bottom raw edges, and move the clips to where they hold all the layers together with the zipper sandwiched in the middle. 

Sew along where you clipped 1/4″ (1/2 cm) from the edge, being aware of your zipper, then flip inside out and press flat. Finish this seam by topstitching 1/4” (1/2 cm) from the zipper’s edge. 

Step 7. Attach the bottom gusset  

Now take your bottom gusset piece (F) and place it right sides together on top of the finished top gusset piece. Match together the shorter ends and clip in place. The bottom gusset should be a lot bigger than the top gusset, so you’ll have some space between. 

Flip this piece over where the inside of the top gusset is facing up and the bottom gusset you just attached is on the very bottom. Take the bottom gusset lining piece and place it on top, with short edges lined up, and clip in place. You can lift the clips that are already holding the bottom gusset outer piece up and slide the edges of the lining underneath. 

Now you should have your lining, top gusset and bottom gusset sandwiched together in that order. Notice the layering of the gussets and the lining in the third photo under this step. Sew these short edges so it results in one piece. 

Next, flip this piece inside out until the lining is on the inside and the outer fabric is on the outside. This will be the side of your backpack. 

To secure the sides, topstitch along the seam where the top and bottom gussets meet on both ends. 

Step 8. Create the inner pocket  

Grab the lining pocket piece (B) and fold in half shortways. Clip the sides shut and sew around the edges (minus the top) with a 1/4” (1/2 cm) seam allowance, then flip it inside out. Iron the edges, then fold the top edge inside itself about 1/2” (1 cm). Iron this straight, clip in place and sew shut with a 1/4″ (1/2 cm) seam allowance until you have a clean fabric rectangle. 

Place the finished pocket piece on top of one of the main body (A) lining pieces. Center it where you would like and pin in place. Sew around the edges (minus the top), and now you have a pocket. 

Step 9. Layer everything together  

Now it’s time to sew the main body pieces (A) to the finished gusset piece: 

  • Flip the gusset around to where the lining is facing the outside and lay it on its edges so it stands up. Take the main body piece that does NOT have the straps and tabs attached and place it inside the standing gusset until it lays flat at the bottom, right side up. You should have the right sides of both pieces facing the inside. Clip these pieces together making your way all around the main body piece. Sew with a 1/4” (1/2 cm) seam allowance all around the edge. 
  • Flip it around print-side-up and use your hands to push in the gusset piece. Press it as flat as you can against the main body piece, then place a main body lining piece (A) that does NOT have the pocket on top, right sides together. Clip around the edges similar to how you did before, but this time leave a 4-5” (10-12 cm) gap at the bottom edge. Sew around the edges still leaving the gap open. When you’re done, you can put your hand inside and flip everything inside out so the raw edges are on the inside. This method is literally called “birthing.” 
  • When everything is flipped (and starting to look like a backpack), turn it again so the outer fabric is facing inwards. Unzip the zipper if it’s not already. This will ensure we can do our next step correctly. Place the main body piece (A) with the straps and tabs attached and place it right side down into the gusset. Clip these pieces right sides together and stitch all the way around the edge like before. 
  • Grab the last main body piece (A), the lining with the pocket. Flip your almost-finished bag over to where the other lining piece is facing upwards. Push everything flat like you did earlier for the gusset. Place the pocket lining piece pocket-side-down and clip around the edges, leaving another 4-5” gap at the bottom. This will be a bit bulky to clip and sew – so go slowly! 
  • “Birth” your bag one last time. It may be easier to pull out the straps first, then go from there. Again, this might be a little difficult to pull through at first because of all our layers, but slow is key. You’re almost there! 

Step 10. Hand sew the bottom  

You might notice the bottom edges where you pulled the bag through are still raw. Take a hand sewing needle, tuck the raw edges in and close everything up with the stitch of your choice. 

Hand sewing the bottom inside raw edges shut

Step 11. Finish the straps  

For the last step of this small backpack tutorial, everything should be structured together (minus the two straps dangling from the top). Take your two strap adjusters and feed one strap through each one, using the photo below for reference: 

  • Stick the end of one strap through one slot of the adjuster and feed it back out the other. Then pull the strap through the corresponding D-ring with the inside of the adjuster facing you.  
  • Grab the end that’s still sticking out from the D-ring and bring it around through the first slot of the adjuster. You will most likely need to pull up the part of the strap that’s inside the adjuster to make room.  
  • Then, pull the strap through the other slot about 2″ and secure it with a clip on the inside of the loop. Test adjusting the strap with the clip in place to make sure everything slides correctly before sewing it down. You may think a strap was sewn right until you try to adjust it and it doesn’t work! 

Pat yourself on the back(pack)!

You’re done! You’ve accomplished this small backpack tutorial and deserve a round of applause. More than just a new place to store essentials on the go, you’ve created a one-of-a-kind make with Spoonflower’s Design Library. Whether you’re keeping your creation or gifting it to a friend and found the perfect design that speaks to their style, be proud of the fact that it’s handmade and heart-made. 

Thanks to former Spoonflower team member Anna for showing us how to DIY this mini backpack!

Share your creation with your world and ours by tagging #Spoonflower on your social media channels.  

Love this small backpack tutorial? Get started with quality fabrics from Spoonflower. 

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make this mini backpack pattern to child or adult size?  
This small backpack tutorial works for children or children at heart. The finished backpack measures about 11″ (height) x 9″ (width across) x 4″ (depth). 
Which fabrics work best for a small backpack? 
Use a sturdy fabric like Dogwood Denim®, Recycled Canvas or Cypress Cotton Canvas for the outer fabric. Use quilting cotton like Petal Signature Cotton® for lining.  
Is this small backpack tutorial beginner-friendly? 
As this multi-step process involves working with hardware and sewing through multiple layers of thick fabric, this pattern is best for intermediate sewists.