We think every me-made wardrobe should include an easy-to-wear DIY denim skirt that can quickly transition from day to night, and even from summer to colder weather when paired with a pair of tights. Using our Dogwood Denim™, Spoonflower’s MaryAshlyn takes you through all the steps you need to create a skirt in the video below using our free PDF pattern (available in sizes 0-18). If you prefer a shorter or longer length, we’ve included two additional versions just for you! Find the full instructions and pattern link below.
MaryAshlyn: Denim skirts are always in style for a reason as they fit effortlessly into most occasions. And with our Dogwood Denim™, you can easily step outside of the usual solid-colored denim piece by making your own using your favorite Spoonflower design. Once you’re done, you can even make a matching tank using Modern Jersey for a complete outfit! Follow the steps or watch the video to make your very own denim skirt.
Materials
- 1+ yards of Dogwood Denim (for version 2, use 3 yards)—We’re using Sticks and Stones (Mustard) by nouveau_bohemian
- Denim Skirt PDF Pattern, available in sizes 0-18 and 3 different lengths
- 1 zipper, 7-9″ long
- 1 button or clasp of your choice
- Sewing machine—We’re using our Bernina B 350
- Thread
- Hammer
- Fabric marker
- Tailor’s chalk
- Serger (optional)
Seam allowance: Unless otherwise instructed, all seams should be sewn at 5/8”.
DIY Denim Skirt Video Tutorial
If you’d like to follow a written version of this project, it’s been added below.
First Time Sewing With Thicker Fabric?
Steps To Sew A Denim Skirt
Step 1: Print your pattern and cut out your desired template.
After choosing the version of the skirt you’d like to make, cut out the corresponding paper template.
Step 2: Trace and cut out your fabric pieces.
Using your paper template and fabric marker, trace your pattern pieces onto your fabric. Cut out two of each pattern piece except for the fly shield, as you’ll only need one.
Step 3: Finish all the edges of your fabric pieces.
Finish the raw edges of all your pattern pieces with a zigzag stitch or a serger.
Step 4: Sew the yoke to the back skirt.
Start assembling your skirt by sewing the yoke to the back skirt, matching the notches. Press the seams up towards the yoke.
For an (optional welt seam finish): On the right side along the seams, top stitch through the seam allowance just beside the seam. Next, top stitch through the seam allowance 1/4” from the seam.
Step 5: Assemble the front pockets.
Place your front pocket backing pieces design side up on the right side of your front pocket lining pieces. Be sure to match up the circles. Top stitch the front pocket backing pieces to the front pocket lining along the bottom and inner edges.
Match the right sides of the front pocket lining to the front skirt at the curved edge and sew. Trim the seam allowance and clip along the curve.
Turn the front pocket lining to the inside of the front skirt. Press the curved edge and top stitch through all layers just inside the edge. Then, top stitch again 1/2” from the curved edge.
Fold the front pocket lining along the fold line and match the bottom curved edge. Sewing only the front pocket lining piece, sew the bottom curved edge.
Step 6: Prep the fly shield and assemble the front skirt.
Start by folding the fly shield down the middle with wrong sides together. Then stitch around all three raw edges.
With right sides facing, place the front skirt pieces together and stitch from the hem up to the large circle. Clip the seam allowance to—but not through—this point. Baste stitch from the large circle to the waist notch, parallel to the fly extension curve.
Open the front skirt pieces and lay right side down. Press the seam allowance and fly extensions toward the left side.
Fold the edge of the right fly extension over 5/8” and press.
Place the zipper right side down and then align the teeth with the fold line on the right fly extension. Stitch the zipper to the right fly extension, taking care not to stitch through the front skirt (fold extension away to stitch here only).
Lay the right fly extension back down and place the zipper teeth along the left fly extension. Stitch the zipper to the left fly extension, taking care not to stitch through the front skirt.
Match the fly shield to the right fly extension along the raw edges. Stitch the fly shield to the right fly extension along the zipper stitch line, taking care not to stitch through the front skirt. Fold the fly shield away from the left fly extension. Baste the left fly extension to the front skirt.
On the right side of the fabric, use chalk to pencil a J-stitch, the J-shaped stitching along the fly, as seen on most pants. Making sure that the fly shield is still folded out of the way, top stitch along the J-stitch line from the waistline to the center seam.
Step 7: Attach the back pockets to the back skirt.
Turn the top edge of the back pocket in toward the wrong side of fabric by 5/8” and press. Here, I’m using a Dritz Ezy Hem to create a perfect, even hem.
Fold the sides and bottom of pocket towards the wrong side of the fabric by 5/8” and press. Trim as needed and repeat for the other back pocket. Finally, top stitch about 1/2” from the top edge of the back pocket.
Line up the circles on the back pockets with the circles on the back skirt.
Top stitch along the side and bottom edges about 3/8” from the folded edge to secure the pockets to the back skirt. Top stitch again just inside the side and bottom folded edges.
Sew the two back pieces together along the center-back, being sure to match the yoke seams. Sew along the center-back from top to bottom. Press seams to one side.
Versions 2 & 3 only, Step 8: Finishing the back vent.
If you are sewing version 1, skip ahead to step 9.
If sewing Version 2 or 3, you will need to finish the back vent at this time. Fold and press the vent flaps over 1/2” toward the wrong side of the fabric. Then, fold over again and press another 5/8”.
Secure by top stitching 1/2” from the edge.
With right sides together, sew the side seams of the front and back skirt. Press side seams towards the back. On the right side, top stitch through the seam allowance, 1/2” from the seam.
Step 9: Attach the waistband to the skirt.
If you are using interfacing, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of one waistband piece.
With right sides facing, pin the long side of the waistband to the skirt, matching the center-back seam with the center back of the waistband and lining up the hemmed edges of the band with the right and left fly extensions accordingly.
Sew all the way around, and then cut notches around the curve—this is because the waistband is curved, and the skirt isn’t.
Now, press both the waistband and seam allowance up, away from the skirt.
Sew the second waistband piece to the attached waistband along the top edge and center-front edges. Trim the seams as needed, clipping the corners and understitch.
Turn the waistband pieces right-side out and press.
Fold the raw edge under and stitch the facing down on the inside of the skirt.
Step 10: Install clasp or button closure.
Following the marking for your size, sew a buttonhole on the overlapping side of the waistband.
Then, sew a button to the underlying side of the waistband.
I’m using a traditional denim button, which has to be hammered on.
Step 11: Finish the skirt.
Turn the hem up 3/8” and press. Then, turn up another 5/8” and press. Stitch 1/2” from the initial fold to secure the hem.
Hi!
Newby sewer here, I have quite a small waist and big bum so when I make a skirt I usually have to size up quite a bit before pinning the sides and altering towards the end.
How would you best advise I do this with this pattern to ensure a proper fit?
Thanks!
Hi Victoria, great question!
There are loads of tutorials out there if you look for how to grade sewing patterns between two sizes.
For starters, you can check out these related blog posts, which explain how to do that in detail:
https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2019/09/combining-pattern-sizes.html
https://sewliberated.com/blog/sew-liberated-guide-to-grading-between-sizes
Best,
Betsy
Spoonflower
Be aware that this tutorial has three oversights:
1. Zipper placement: It won’t be clear for newbies (like me). To hide the zipper, you need to sew its left side to the cut edge of the fly shield (not close to the fold of the fly shield, which is how I originally interpreted the pattern).
2. Back pocket placement: The pattern incorrectly places the top of the pocket about three inches below the yoke, which makes you look like your skirt is sagging below your bum. For correct pocket placement, grab a pair of your favorite jeans, and eyeball where those pockets are placed. Mirror that placement for your skirt.
3. Waistband length: The pattern length is about one-and-a-half inches too short.
Hi Amy!
Thanks for sharing these helpful tips!
I have this tutorial on my to-do list and appreciate you sharing them with us!
Best,
Betsy
Spoonflower
So excited to make this! I’m actually going to try adapting it to make a cargo skirt. Thank you so much for offering it for free. I know it’s a lot of work to draft and test a pattern. It’s greatly appreciated!
Thanks for your comment, Kori! We’re excited that you’re excited. When you’re finished sewing the skirt, feel free to tag us on social media (@spoonflower) if you decide to post photos of it! 🙂
Crafty regards,
Anna
Spoonflower
Beautiful styles! Love this DIY. You styled them absolutely perfectly with jewelry. Thanks for an amazing post.
I downloaded the free denim skirt pattern, but it is missing one of the front skirt paper. It is missing 3… C. They have a duplicate of 2…B…4
Hi Cheryl and thanks for your interest! We have recently updated the pattern PDF and it should now have what you were previously missing.
Best of luck with your skirt!
Amy
Spoonflower
I’ve been looking for a good pattern to use with denim, and I’ve just found yours! I’m going to use a more aggressive zipper, because I like the top of the skirt to fit a little snug around and besides, I can be pudgy sometimes.
Super excited, wish me luck! I’ve got some delightful white stretch denim, and I may add some blue print outdoor fabric as trim somewhere. Thank you so much for posting!!
Hi Lori,
Best of luck! We know it’ll turn out great!
Best,
Anna
Spoonflower
I’m stuck between sizes (18 waist, 16 hips) and I will need to grade the pattern. I’m familiar with grading, but not sure at what point I’ll be able to grade as I’m not sure where the pattern sits I terms of hip width. Thoughts?
I did like another commenters suggestion to wait on cutting the waistband until I know exactly where the bulk of the skirt fits.
Hi Brittany,
Thanks for your interest in our denim skirt pattern! It was drafted so that the waistband seam hits approximately 2.5″ below the natural waistline. We would still recommend using your natural waist measurement when referencing the size chart. And the hip line is approximately 5″ below the waistband seam. Best of luck with the project!
Take care,
Amy
Hi,
The size chart doesn’t state if that is your measurement or the finished garment size, which can differ depending on ease and would be useful to know which it is so I can grade/adjust as needed. I think you said earlier in the comments it is meant to sit just below your natural waist.
Thanks
Hi Fiona, the size chart is based on your measurement. Thanks for the question and apologies for any confusion!
Thank you so much for posting this! The pattern was exactly the style I was looking for and came out lovely in a lighter weight cotton. Plan to make more!!
The overall fit is very straight and for women like me that are more curvy between hips & waist I had to adjust it slightly. However it easy enough to do.
1) Wait to cut out your waist band piece until after most of the skirt is done.
2) Try it on before the step of sewing on the waistband, and curve the side seams & center back in as much as needed.
3) Use a tap measure to find your smaller waist size and cut the waist band strip that fits the reduced diameter.
4) Follow the remaining steps for finishing.
Hi Shelly,
Thanks so much for sharing your modifications!
What is the height of the waistband – to put say a belt around it.
Hi Scotty,
The height of the waistband is about 3″. I hope that helps, but if you have any more questions don’t hesitate to ask!
Ahhhh! I think I got it. I am taping the letters to the letters (A to A, B to B, C to C etc…) then connect it by numbers and cut. Sorry ???? I’m just more of a visual person and I could not see the big picture but it is all coming together. Thanks for the pattern.
I am extra excited about making this skirt! However, I am scratching my head trying to figure out how to piece together my fabric 🙁 . Is there a diagram I can see to tell me how to tape the pieces together?
Thank you for providing this free pattern. I can’t wait to try it. One small suggestion on the instructions: When clipping the curves of the pocket, NEVER use an open pair of scissors. ALWAYS use the point to make clips. The photo under the instructions: ” Trim the seam allowance and clip along the curve. ” shows a wide open pair of scissors to make the clips. Especially with a denim and multiple layers at this seam, it would be easy to accidentally clip past the stitching and into the garment.
Hi Ana,
Thanks for the helpful tip!
to add to my earlier comment – I did grade the skirt and adjust the fit before adding the waist band. I used a lightweight cotton camo print with a little stretch. Not finished yet but looks pretty good before the waist band stage.
About to finish the inside seams and add the waist band. Any suggestions on how to finish the inside seams? I really enjoyed making this. The fit is good and instructions were easy to follow. Next time I would change to a chunkier zipper, the dress zipper looks a bit delicate. Also I would make the shorter version. Thanks for the pattern!
Hello.
I love how this skirt looks and I would love it even more if there was a version with a side or back zipper rather than a front fly zipper. Is there any way you could show us how to do this? I would really appreciate it.
Thanks so much.
Hi Hana,
Thanks so much for the suggestion! We don’t have plans to share a tutorial for adding a zipper but you could easily adapt instructions from another skirt pattern that does include a zipper.
-Meredith from Spoonflower
I made this– I was excited and followed the directions carefully and spent all the money on custom denim from Spoonflower. Turns out that the pattern does not account for a rear or for hips. So my skirt fits me at the hips, but not at the waist (too much room), or at the waist, but not at the hips (not enough room), depending on where I want the waist band to sit. Looking at the finished product, it’s very rectangular. Because the denim does not allow stretch, there is no way to squeeze into it. I’m disappointed that I spent so much time and money on a skirt I can’t wear. Perhaps you could publish some tips for how to adjust the hips/waist?
Hi LR,
Thanks so much for your comment and we’re sorry to hear the skirt didn’t fit as expected. This denim skirt is a low-rise skirt and meant to sit about 2 or 3 inches below the natural waist. It’s possible that you may need to grade between sizes and we’ve listed a few resources on how to do this below:
https://www.cashmerette.com/pages/grading-between-sizes
https://www.straightstitchdesigns.com/grading-between-sizes/
https://doitbetteryourself.club/how-to-grade-between-sizes-in-pdf-sewing-patterns/
Thanks so much for the pattern and instructions it’s been one of my best fitting skirts I own.
Only tips are I made mine more a-line as I know that shape fits me better so maybe let people know that’s an option. Secondly get people to try on prior to attaching the waist band (I needed to put in a couple of darts) this way any adjustments can be made very easily and it it doesn’t sage at my back. Mind you maybe these are more advanced techniques so understand why it might be included.
Thanks again
Thanks for the idea and the pattern. I made this today – it turned out very well. I used a printed linen – which was slightly lighter weight, but still worked. This was my first time sewing a fly zip, and inset pocket, as well as patch pockets. I had to make a few fitting adjustments to the yoke to reduce the waist size.
The instructions and video were great – although I needed to check both as there were some instructions provided in one that weren\’t in the other.
The only area that I struggled with was the fly – in particular the J-stitching – I didn\’t realise that I needed to pin the zip shield out of the way. Even when I redid it the second time I had to fiddle around and unpick some of the zip to be able to stitch the bottom of the J across the centre of the zip. I may not have folded back the RHS zip extension enough – the instructions were also not that clear here.
Many thanks
Hi Jenny,
We’d love to see your version of the denim skirt! We’ve updated the instructions and apologize for any issues you ran into while sewing your skirt. We appreciate your feedback!
-Meredith from Spoonflower
It really sucks that your pattern does not include plus sizes. Larger women like denim skirts too, you know…
agree that larger women like skirts also!
Agreed. Size 24 here.
Hi Jessie,
We really appreciate your feedback. When we create and release more free patterns, we’ll be sure to keep this suggestion in mind!
– Suz from Spoonflower
This is such a cute project and I can’t wait to get started. I downloaded the pattern, but I can’t see where the yardage requirements are listed for each size. Could you direct me?
Hi Vanya,
We can’t wait to see how your version turns out! You can view the yardage needed for each size and version here.
I was excited about this pattern, but I think it is missing a piece of the skirt front that should be 3 C.
Do you have this piece of the pattern?
Hi Mary,
We apologize for the unexpected inconvenience! The pattern has been updated.