How To Make Cozy Hudson Pants

MAY 26, 2015 updated May 15, 2020

If you’re looking for comfortable loungewear that also looks good walking down the sidewalk, these pants are the ticket. This project tutorial is for those with beginner to intermediate sewing skills. If you like to make things, or you’re motivated by comfort, you can do this!

I chose the Hudson Pant pattern from True Bias because it’s comfy and relaxed but has a slight drop crotch style to it. I chose two designs on Spoonflower’s Marketplace in organic cotton knit to make these, the loungewear of my dreams: “stacked” by Holli Zollinger and “ditsy mustard” by Patty Sloniger. I’m really into mustard and grey color combinations this spring, and what better to go along with it than a floral ditzy print?

finished Hammer pants

MATERIALS YOU’LL NEED:

2 yards Spoonflower organic cotton knit or a similar soft, stretchy fabric (I had two kinds on hand so I’m using a second grey triangle design to add accents to the pockets and ankle bands)

1 spool coordinating thread (I used plain white)

1 yard elastic band – 1″ or 2″ wide is fine

1 piece of 1″ x 2″ fusible interfacing (If you’d like a drawstring in addition to elastic waistband; optional)

1 ballpoint needle (reduces damage to knit fabrics)

1 drawstring (optional)

CUT OUT YOUR FABRIC

Step 1: Print the True Bias Hudson Pant pattern and tape together as directed. The pattern offers two options for leg length – calf length (View B) and ankle length (View A). I chose the ankle length because you can always hike them up to your calves if you’d like.

Step 2: Fold 2 yards of fabric in, wrong sides facing, and pin Hudson Pant pattern pieces on top. The direction that the fabric stretches most should be aligned horizontally across pieces to help with the fit of the pants, across the hips and thighs, and ankle or calf bands. The hips of this pattern are loose and accommodate hips and backside very well. The legs are designed to taper into a very cute but still comfortable skinny leg.

Cut out each piece pertaining to the version of the pattern that you’re making. Make sure to cut out the waistband on the fold, or you’ll have to stitch two rectangles together (which isn’t actually a big deal).

START WITH THE POCKETS

Step 3: Pin the raw edges of the pocket detail to the right side of the pocket lining along the small curve, stretching slightly to fit from the curve’s top to bottom. Baste the pocket detail to the pocket lining at 3/8” seam allowance.

pin and stitch together pocket detail and pocket lining

Step 4: Matching notches, pin the right side of the pocket lining and pocket detail to the right side of the pant front with the pocket detail sandwiched in the middle. With the pocket lining on top, stitch all layers together along the small curved edge. (You can use your basting stitch as a guide.) Trim seam allowance to avoid bulk.

match right side of leg and right side of main pocket

Step 5: Flip the pocket lining around so that it is wrong sides together with the pant front. Press the pant front and pocket lining towards seam allowance with the pocket detail standing up between them.

_MG_7880

trim pocket detail

Step 6: Pin the right side of the main pocket to the right side of the pocket lining along the long, curving edge. Making sure that the pant front stays out of the way, stitch the two pocket pieces together.

match right sides of pocket and leg to stitch pocket

Step 7: Match notches of the pocket pieces to the pant front and baste along the top and side through all layers.

Step 8: Trim the pocket detail if necessary so that the ends are flush with the pant and inner pocket. Be careful not to trim past the seam.

sew pocket onto leg

NEXT, BEGIN SEWING THE LEGS

 Step 9: With right sides together of the front and back pant legs, stitch the left front and left back pant pieces together at the inner leg seam and the side seam. Press seams open. Repeat for right leg.

sew inseam and out

Step 10: With the right leg inside out and the left leg right side out, put the left leg inside of the right leg. Legs are now right sides together. Match the inner leg seams, center front, center back, and notches on the crotch.

sew the crotch

Pin. Stitch the entire crotch, front to back. Pull legs apart. Press seam open.

pants ready for waistband

LET’S MOVE ONTO THE WAISTBAND

Step 11: This step is optional. Fuse your 2” x 1“ scrap of interfacing to the back side of the waistband with an iron on medium heat, horizontally centered behind the buttonhole marks. On the right side of the waistband, sew two 1/2” buttonholes on markings. Carefully open your buttonholes according to your preferred method. I decided that I didn’t want a drawstring in addition to the elastic waistband, so I skipped this step.

Step 12: Join the two short ends of the waistband together, forming a ring, right sides together. Pin, stitch, press open.

Step 13: Fold the two rectangle waistband pieces in half lengthwise, wrong sides facing each other. Pin the raw edges together.

stitch waistabnd
Step 14: Match the right side of the waistband (side with buttonholes) to the right side of the pant at waist. Pin in place matching center backs, center fronts, and side seams to circle markings. Stitch together leaving a 4” opening at center back.

sew on waistband and insert elastic

Step 15: Wrap the elastic around your lower waist where you’d like the waistband of the pants to fall and find the length that feels comfortable, but is still snug. Add 1/2” for overlap and cut your elastic. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and feed it through the 4“ opening in the waistband until it forms a circle with both ends exiting the waistband. Overlap by 1/2” and topstitch the overlapped area of the elastic until it is secure.

Step 16: Put the elastic all the way inside of your waistband and stitch up the 4” opening so that the elastic is fully encased and the pants are completely attached to the waist-band. Press the seam allowance down towards the pant. Distribute the gathering on the waistband evenly. Pin waistband fabric to the elastic every few inches to keep the gathering in place. You may find this is difficult, so make sure you take your time and add enough pins to do it right. It’ll be worth it.

Step 17: Using a slight zigzag stitch on your sewing machine (or use your serger), start at center back and topstitch around your waistband through both layers of fabric and the elastic at 5/8” from the top. You will need to pull your elastic until the waistband fabric is not gathered in front of your presser-foot as you sew. Repeat with another row of topstitching, parallel to the first, at 1 1/2” from the top, or use a double needle instead.

Step 18: This is an optional step. Attach your drawstring cord to a safety pin and feed it through one buttonhole, into the casing created by the topstitching, and back out the other buttonhole. Shorten cord if necessary.

FINALLY, ATTACH THE CALF/ANKLE BANDS

Step 19: Start by folding the ankle/calf band in half width-wise with right sides together. Pin. Sew the two short ends together to form a tube. Press seam open.

ankle bands

Step 20: Fold the bottom of the tube up to meet the top of the tube with wrong sides together, matching notches and seam. Pin edges together and press fold.

Step 21: Pin the raw edges of one ankle/calf band to the right side of the corresponding leg opening. Match the band seam to the inner leg seam and the band notch to the outer leg seam. The band is slightly smaller than the leg opening so stretch to match. Stitch together. Trim seam allowances and press up towards the leg. Repeat on other leg.

YOUR HUDSON HAMMER PANTS ARE FINISHED! Try them on, and enjoy the classic coziness and flexibility that earned Hammer pants their much deserved popularity in the 1990s hip-hop dance craze.

hammer pants angle

wally and mc hammer

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