Sometimes hemming knit fabric garments can be a little fussy, but Spoonflower crew member Teri is here to show you how to finish off your knit tops beautifully with a simple rounded neckline. Armed with this technique, you’ll be sewing knit necklines, armholes and hemlines with ease!

Teri: Knit fabrics are my favorite to sew and wear, yet all too often my sewing friends say they are intimidated by knits. Creating a clean, beautiful neckline on a knit top can be super easy and quick. Start with your favorite pattern for a knit top and a lovely knit fabric, like Performance Piqué. I chose this adorable print, Como Se Llama? by happygoluckycreations, so the sweet llamas can cheer you on.

To achieve a smooth neckline that does not ripple or gape open, the binding needs to be slightly smaller than the neckline. A tiny bit of stretching will keep the binding flat and close to the body.

This technique is not just for necklines! It’s a great way to finish armholes and even hems on knits.

1. Figure out the length of your binding.

Don’t be frightened; we’re going to do a little math now. First, to know how much binding you’ll need lengthwise, measure your neckline opening and multiply by .90, then add 1/2″, to allow for two 1/4″ seam allowances, one at either end of the binding.

For example, the neckline of my pattern is 28″. Therefore, I multiplied 28 x .9, which came to 25.2. For the sake of simplicity, I rounded that to 25. Next, I added 1/2″ for the 1/4″ seam allowance at either end: 25 + .5 = 25.5. So now I know my binding will be 25.5″ in length.

2. Next, mark the width and cut out your binding.

Figuring out the width is a lot easier because the llamas and I have already figured that out for you—it’s 1.5″ wide.

Cut out your binding, with the length you calculated in step 1 and a width of 1.5″.

The binding for this project will be folded in half with a 1/4″ seam allowance. If you’d like a thicker or thinner binding, your width may vary.

3. Sew the two short ends of the binding together.

Sew the two short ends together, using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

4. Mark the binding into 4 equal parts using pins.

With right sides together, pin the binding to the neckline, matching the quarter marks.

Remember, the binding is a little bit smaller than the neckline opening, so it won’t match up evenly.

5. Sew your binding to your neckline.

Stitch the binding to the neckline with a 1/4″ seam allowance, gently stretching the binding to fit the neckline as you sew.

For this project, I set my zig zag stitch was set to 3 for length and 3.5 for width.

Sew the neckband to your shirt

6. Don’t worry if it looks a little wavy.

We will fix that in a few minutes. This sleepy little llama certainly is not concerned about a little ripple in the stitching.

sew your neckband

7. Press the binding up, towards the zig zag stitching.

I like to use a piece of plain cotton fabric over the knit fabric as a pressing cloth when using steam, just in case the iron decides to spit out too much water.

Now, wrap the binding over the seam allowance and to the inside. Pin the binding in place, making sure that the binding fully overlaps the zig zag stitching on the inside.

Pin your binding in place

Press the binding up, towards the zig zag stitching. I like to use a piece of plain cotton fabric over the knit fabric as a pressing cloth when using steam, just in case the iron decides to spit out too much water.

Now, wrap the binding over the seam allowance and to the inside. Pin the binding in place, making sure that the binding fully overlaps the zig zag stitching on the inside.

8. Stitch in the ditch.

From the right side, “stitch in the ditch” (in the existing seam line) between the body of the shirt and the binding. It takes a bit of concentration to keep the needle in the right place. This gets much easier with practice.

stitch in the ditch
It’s time to “stitch in the ditch”

9. Press your binding.

Once you’ve finished step 8, the last step is to press the neckline with a good shot of steam to eliminate any waviness from the stretching and stitching. The llamas are so proud of you for making such a beautiful neckline!

I hope this technique will make sewing with knits more fun and less fussy. Share links to your favorite sewing with knits’ tips and techniques with us in the comments below!